Upper and process of constructing same



UPPER E. s. BOTT ET AL AND PROCESS OF CONSTRUCTING SAME Filed April 19.1928 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 7 J62 ar 5. 032? a kur 6 712%]1' Gnome/11o Dec.17, 1929. v E. S. BOTT ET AL 1,739,821

UPPER AND PROCESS OF CONSTRUCTING SAME Filed Apri 19. 1928 5Sheets-Sheet 2 Emma Dec. 17, 1929. E. s. BOTT ET AL 1,739,821

UP? AND PROCESS OF CONSTRUCTING SAME Filed April 19, 1928 3 Sheets-Sheet5 Patented Dec. 17, 1929 UNITE? stars-s EDGAR s. BOT'J. AND Antenna s.Ftnu1 z',-oF enessisconsin; Assienons To LA cnossn RUBBER MILLS 00., orLA OROSSE WI'SCQNSIN; A eonrone'rro'n oFWIs- CONS EN' AppIicatioh filedApril 19,

The invention relates primarily to agalosh having a turn-down cuff, andapock'et which increases the size of the upper when opened, for ease inapplying and removing the gal'osh. I

It is one aim of the invention to provide a new and improvedconstruction in which the pocket is embodied in overlapped portion-sotbulge, but may lie closely against the upper togive a trim andattractiveappearance, quite uncommon with galoshes.

A further aimistoprovide for rapid and-economical manufacture, and inthis I connection to make 'unique provisionfor the production of aproperlylined-article.

l/Vith the foregoing- .in' view, the nvention resides inathe-novelsubjectmatter herein after described and claimed, description beingaccomplished'by reference to the ac"- coinpanying-drawings.

Fig. 1' isa l perspective view of themed m upper-forniingblank and; anumber of otheri parts, including the pocket lining and 'fastenlinggstrapmih juxta-position-.

Fig. 2 is a perspective viewsimilar to-FiTg-J 1,,showin 1 thepocketlining, andtheciifi in readiness} for? application, and showingthe straps andwtheir attaching means placed upon the mainupperforiningblank.

Fig. 3 is apersp'ective vlew slinilar to Fig.

2 but showing the cuff and pocke'tlin'ing ap plied to the blank.

Fig. d-is 'a perspect1-ve view of the blank-:ancl parts connectedtherewith, shaped into upper 1 form.

Fig. 5 is a perspective view 'of the lining applied to the last. M l

Fig; 6]i s a. perjspective view showingthe assembled upper applied tothe last around the lining.

UPPER Ann ,Piae'enss or oorrsrancrrno sAM-E I 1 28'. serial 1%.-271,321.

Fig. 7 is a perspective. view illustrating the manner'in whichtheli'ning is out within the pocket after all parts have been vulcanizedor otherwise securely fastenedtogether. .Fig'. 8 is. a perspective viewofthe com-- pleted shoe with the cuff thereof turned down andl'yingIa'bove the pocket. 1 1

Both the construction and the process here in disclosed, will be ratherspecifically described, with the understanding however,- t'hat withinthe scope of the invention as claimed, variations may be made. I i

The numeral 8 denotes ablank preferably formed-of fabric, said blankembodying a relati vely short reach 9 and a comparatively longreach 10at substantially right angles to each other. The reach 9' possessesa"longitudinalouter edge denoted by the characters E and F and theassociated arrows and lines, and a concave outer end denoted bythe'letters G and H, the portion G of this outer end; being at an acuteangle to the portion F of the longitudinal edge, providing asubstanti'allytriangular'surplus of material 1-1-,-fro n Y which a sidepocket is to be formed. The

reach 10 embodies a longitudinal outer edge denoted at AB*C and-an outerend J-K which is substantially straight and at an acute anglefto thelongitudinal edge portion .A. The inner longitudinal edges 01- thereaches 910 are denoted at I, and the corne'r portion oit' these;reaches connecting? the 1 outer longitudinal edges t'h-ereotis giventhechar-aster D. 7

Slits l2-= are forme'dinthe reach- 9; near the end portion- Hthereof,.-stra-ps; lBihaive' their inner ends passed tlirough'itheseslitsa' strip of green 'fubber :14 is-thenapplied over. slits and strapends, ,and- -a 'fr i'ction stay reinforcement 15 is applied over therubber strip. v

18, inside tabric'l9 andaala-yer ofriibbered of said' blank,andthistackinesswill serve 7 21 and the portions of said blank' atopposite sides of this line, form the tip and the vamp of the shoe. Theend portion K of the reach 10 is'temporarily stuck to the longitudinaledge portion F of the reach 9, leaving the end portion J of said reach10, projecting beyond said longitudinal edge portion F as seen in Fig.4, to form a front edge of one side quarter of the upper. The endportion H of the reach 9 forms a free rear edge for the upper part ofthe vamp, which portion is adapted to rearwardly overlap the front edgeJ of the abovenamed side quarter. The end portion G of the reach 9 formsthe upper end ofapocket P. The edge portions A-'BC DE form the loweredge of the upper, and the edge portion I constitutes the upper endthereof, which end is provided with the cuff 17. It will be observedthat this cuff extends entirely from the rear edge H of the vamp, to thefront edge J ofthe above-named side quarter, so that when these upperportions of the vamp and side quarter are overlapped, the ends of thecuff 17 are similarly overlapped, to produce a warm and weather-tightconstruction.

At a suitable time, an appropriate lining 22 is applied over anappropriate last 23 and has its lower edges suitably secured to aninsole (not shown). This lining extends continuously around the last andpreferably only has one seam 24, located at the rear of other suitablelocation, but not at the side portion which is to be occupied by thepocket P.

The blank 8, either after shaping as seen in Fig. 4, or incident to suchshaping, is placed around the last 23 and the lining 22 thereon. Bymeans of a rubber coating, cement, etc., all internal parts of theupper, with the exception of the pocket P (already equipped with thelining 1-6) and the cuff 17, are stuck to the lining 22. The pocket P isnow folded rearwardly and by means of appropriate wrapping or in anyother de-- sired manner, the parts are held in assembled relation uponthe last. Vulcanizing is now accomplished and incident thereto the usualouter sole and'foxing are secured in place. After vulcanizing, byseparating the overlapped portions of the vamp and adjacent sidequarter, the pocket P is opened as shown in Fig. 7 and the lining 22 isaccessible.

Then, by meansof an appropriate knife 25,

this lining is vertically slit from its upper end entirely to the bottomof the pocket P, the slit being indicated at 26 in Fig. 7. The portionof the lining 22 at one side of this slit has been firmly vulcanized tothe upper portions upon which it lies, and the port-ion of said liningat the other side of said slit has been vulcanized upon the lining 16which not only lines the pocket P, but the superposed part of the vamp.1 7

After taking the vulcanized upper from the last, its edges are trimmedwherever advisable and an appropriate binding 27 is applied to them, orthese edges may be finished in any other desired manner. Also, suitablefastening means 28 are attached for co-action with the straps 13. Thesefastening means serve to hold the rear edge portion H of the vamp lappedupon the front edge portion J of the side quarter and hold the pocket Pfolded rearwardly upon said side quarter. The rearwardfolding of thispocket occurs substantially along the shade lines 29 of Fig. 7, and asthis fold line is spaced a considerable distance from the rear edge H ofthe vamp, it will'be seen that there is an extended overlap of thisvamp, over the side quarter, giving warmth and weather protection.

the cuff portion above the pocket P is less than the distance from thetop of said pocket P to the fold line 30 of said cuff. Thus, when thispocket P is downwardly turned as seen in this view, its overlapped endswill not overlap the pocket and cause a clumsy and unsightly bulge, butmay lie snugly against the upper, giving an unusually trim and pleasingappearance. The overlapped pock-' et at the lower portion of the shoe isof sub-- stantially the same thickness as the overlapped and downturnedend portions of the cuff, so that an unusually uniform appearance isgiven to the side of the shoe at which these formations are located.Moreover, by

employing the construction disclosed, the upper when in use, with thecuff 17 turned down, has no visible seam whatever, the seam whichconnectsthe edge portions F and K, being entirely hidden byv therearwardly folded pocket P. r

The process of manufacture herein disclosed has proven to be rapid andeconomical, and the article produced by such process is meeting withgreat success upon the market. Hence, the characteristics of process andarticle herein described are preferably ob tained in the ways described,attention being again directed however to the fact that with ing thescope of the invention as'claimed, variations may be made.

' We claim 1. In a galosh upper, a vamp entirely free from one sidequarter at the upper portion of the latter, the other side quarter andthe As will be clear from Fig. 8, the width of vamp being continuous,the lower portion only of said vamp having a surplus of material joinedto the lower portion of said one side quarter at the front edge of thelatter to form a pocket, of less height than the side quarters andterminating below the upper ends thereof, said pocket being normallyfolded rearwardly into flat form and overlapping the outer side of saidlow er portion of said one side quarter, the part of the vamp above saidpocket being normally disposed in overlapping relation with the upperportion of said one side quarter, means for holding the parts in theiroverlapped relation, and a turn-down cuff at the top of the upperextending from the free rear edge of said vamp to the front edge of saidone side quarter, whereby the ends of said cuff are overlapped at oneside of the upper; termination of said pocket below the upper end ofsaid one side quarter serving to overcome excessive thickness at saidend under the overlapped cuff ends. Y

2. In a galosh upper, a vamp entirely free from one side quarter at theupper portion of the latter, the other side quarter and the vamp beingcontinuous the lower portion only of said vamp having a surplus ofmaterial joined to the lower portion of said one side quarter at thefront edge of the latter to form a pocket, said pocket being normallyfolded rearwardly into flat form and overlapping the outer side of saidlower portion of said one side quarter, the part of the vamp above saidpocket being normally disposed in overlapping relation withthe upperportion of said one side quarter, means for holding the parts in theiroverlapped relation, and a turn-down cuff at the top of the -upperextending from the free rear edge of said vamp to the front edge of saidone side quarter, whereby the ends of said cuff are overlapped, the cuffportion above said pocket being of no greater height than the distancefrom the upper end of said pocket to the upper end of said one sidequarter, whereby upon downward folding of said cuff the overlapped endsthereof will not overlap the pocket but will lie closely against theupper.

3. In a process of forming an upper having a side pocket, the steps offorming a blank having a relatively short reach provided with a concaveend, and a comparatively long.

reach at an angle to said short reach and having a substantiallystraight end; the outer longitudinal edge of said short reach and saidconcave end thereof being at an acute angle to each other; folding theblank substantially along the line of juncture between said reaches;securing the part of said outer longitudinal edge of the short reachtoward said concave end, to the part of the relatively long reach endtoward the outer longitudinal edge of said long reach, leaving theremainder of the last named end projecting beyond said of said shortreach, the remainder of said concave end constituting a free rear edgefor the vamp of the upper.

4. In a process of forming a lined upper having a pocket, the steps ofapplying a continuous lining to a last, forming an upper-forming blankwith a pocket-forming surplus of material, securing allparts of saidblank except said pocket-forming surplus against said lining and leavingsaid surplus protruding to form a pocket, and vertically slitting thelining within said pocket.

5. In a process of forming a lined upper having a pocket, the steps ofapplying a continuous lining to a last, forming an upperforming blankwith a pocket-forming surplus of material, applying a pocket lining tosaid pocket-forming surplus, securing all parts of said blank except thelined pocket-forming surplus thereof against said lining and leavingsaid surplus protruding to form a pocket, and vertically slitting thelining Within said pocket.

In testimony whereof we have hereunto affixed our signatures.

EDGAR S. BOTT'. ARTHUR S. FUNK.

